There are enough Vitamin C products today to fill the Lago di Como.
Im here to shed some light on this amazing ingredient and why we chose to formulate the newest Skin Couture Bright Serum, Haute C with a synergy of super stable and potent Tetrahexydecyl ascorbate and botanical C rich Kakadu Plum and Camu Camu.
Vitamin C is single handedly the most powerful antioxidant in human skin cells. It has been proven to protect against harmful UV induced cell damage and shown the capacity to slow aging by increasing collagen production while strengthening it. It decreases melanin formation, thus lightening hyperpigmentation. Vitamin C replenishing of Vitamin E to provide protection against oxidative damage. When taken internally, Vitamin C does not do much for our skin.
For a skincare product to have bio-availability and deliver the instant and longterm results I was chasing, the formulation needs to have a Vitamin C concentrations above than 8% and never more than 20%.
Fruits high in Vitamin C have been proven that alone in a formulation, they cannot match pure synthesized Vitamin C. For the Haute C, I wanted to offer a clinically proven concentration of C in a extremely stable and powerful formula with the richest sources botanical C.
Limiting Factors of L-Asrorbic Acid
L-Ascorbic Acid, aka vitamin C is a water soluble ingredient. The dermis of the skin has a rich lipid layer where a multitude of nutrients, including vitamin C, are required to manufacture collagen. This collagen makes skin firm and resistant to wrinkles. Using this pure form of C which is the popular and lesser expensive option a problem since it cannot make it through the lipid layer and deliver the best collagen promoting benefits. Formulators with then add a heaping 20% of this L-Ascorbic Acid in efforts to reach the dermis. This also poses a problem if one has delicate or reactive skin. This high concentration and type of vitamin C has been documented to cause redness, irritation or tingling.
L-Ascorbic Acid is very pH dependent. It only works at a low pH since it is an acid and anything added in the formulation that is alkaline will neutralise it, rendering it ineffective. Formulating this form of vitamin C into a serum is not an easy task as other ingredients and preservative that have a low pH can easily throw off the effectiveness.
Another problem can arise using high strength vitamin C serums containing L-ascorbic acid. L-Ascorbic Acid is highly unstable when exposed to light and/or air. It oxidises to Dehydro Ascorbic Acid which then further degrades to different irritating acids. This can result in a product that doesn't do much or the oxidation creates free radicals that damage and age cells.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a form of vitamin C which has been modified to be soluble in oil. Clinical studies show this penetrates the epidermis, the uppermost layer of skin, but also the dermis, which is the deepest layer of skin. It has been show to penetrate the layers of skin fastest and deeper than any other form of vitamin C.
So, if it penetrates both layers of the skin, does this make it more effective? Vitamin C derivatives need to be converted into L-ascorbic acid; it is the L-ascorbic acid element that fades away your age spots, enhances collagen production and fights free radicals. Studies indicate that Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate does convert into L-ascorbic acid and behaves in exactly the same way as L-ascorbic acid, but without the irritations and stability concerns.
The Benefits are Noteworthy
*At 0.1% reduces melanin synthesis by 80%
*At 10% eliminated age spots in 4 months
*At 0.1% increases collagen by 50%
*Acne clearing at 10% with 80% satisfaction
*Increases collagen synthesis 2-3 times better than ascorbic acid
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate also stimulates the production of glycosaminoglycans like hyaluronic acid that help to hydrate and plump cells. Levels of these glycosaminoglycans decline with age and this may account for some of the changes that occur with our skin as we age.
Tetrahexydecyl ascorbate is stable, safe, effective and suitable for all skin types including sensitive skin.
Find a whopping 15% in our newest youth promoting potion, Haute C.